Dive Playa

Pick where to dive around Playa del Carmen today. This page checks the live port closures and the weather, then tells you whether to dive Playa, take the ferry to Cozumel, head up to Puerto Morelos, or go inland to the cenotes. Further down: what to do in town and where to eat.

Today's call

Yes. Dive Playa. Sharks are in season.

Playa is green. Boats can go out, and the shop will pick the reef.

Port colors as of Wed, 4 Nov 2026, 21:36 GMT-5.

Port status

Green means open. Yellow means closed to small boats, which includes dive boats. Red means closed to everything.

  • GreenPlaya del Carmen
  • GreenCozumel
  • GreenPuerto Morelos

Sky and sea

Air temperature, sea surface temperature, and wind.

  • Playa del Carmen

    Sunny · 75°F air · 85°F water · Light wind, 7 mph

  • Cozumel

    Weather unknown · 85°F water

  • Puerto Morelos

    Sunny · 77°F air · 85°F water · Breezy, 11 mph

Water temperature is taken at the surface. It can be cooler down on the reef.

Where to dive

Each card shows that town's port and what it means for diving today.

Ocean dives from boats off the beach

Playa del Carmen

Port status: Green

Yes. The port is green, and the shop will pick the site.

A yellow pin doesn't always cover the whole captaincy. Boats sometimes still dive south of Punta Venado while Playa's pin stays yellow, so ask the shop.

I'm not affiliated with any dive shop. My pick is Phantom Divers for shark and reef diving in Playa, and Aldora in Cozumel.

Chino owns Phantom Divers. He pioneered shark diving in Mexico and started the bull shark feed off Playa.

Besides boat dives off the beach, Phantom runs trips to the cenotes and Puerto Morelos. There's also a wreck in Playa.

Take the ferry, then a dive boat

Cozumel

Port status: Green

Yes. Cozumel's boats can go out. Take the ferry over from Playa.

Cozumel is green, so dive boats can go out. Ultramar and Winjet ferries leave from the pier at the end of 5th Avenue. The crossing takes about 45 minutes. Boats run all day, and the last one back is usually around 9 or 10 pm. Go by the board at the pier for the real schedule.

For Cozumel, I go with Aldora.

Ultramar ferry times

Ocean dive on a sunken warship

Puerto Morelos

Port status: Green

Yes. Boats can go out from Puerto Morelos.

Bull shark season

An adrenaline rush, then an understanding and a lifetime of respect for these amazing creatures.

Yes. It's bull shark season.

Shops run the dive off Playa from November through February, and December and January are the most reliable months. The boat still needs a green port, and sightings aren't guaranteed.

Same-day diving from the airport

You can be in the water the same day you land in Cancún.

If you land around noon, say on an early morning flight out of New Jersey, you can make an afternoon dive. Book USA Transfers for the ride down.

A night dive is the easier same-day option, and you can land later and spend less. The ADO bus from the airport costs about $20. Once you're outside, walk past the taxi drivers to the small kiosk next to the big red buses. The bus drops you in the middle of 5th Avenue, a 10-minute walk from Phantom Divers.

See all nine captaincies

Advice from a frequent visitor

Things I've learned from coming back to Playa again and again.

  • Don't wander around after about 1 am. Militarized police have been known to stop and frisk people they suspect are looking for drugs.
  • If you're staying in town, buy bottled water or jugs at an OXXO or another corner store for your room.
  • Stay in town. It costs less, and you'll have a better time. Resorts are for the beach, and resort food is terrible. If a partner who doesn't dive needs a resort, hit the breakfast buffet early and eat every other meal in town.
  • The Playacar resorts are a good compromise, since they're close to town.
  • For cost, convenience, and amenities, the best hotel in town is the Aloft by Marriott.
  • Late night, or feeling lazy? Use Rappi. It's the local DoorDash or Grubhub.
  • Skip Uber. Playa runs on inDrive.
  • Avoid 5th Avenue. It's where tourists get ripped off and eat fake food.
  • Don't count on a currency exchange to treat you fairly. Before you hand over cash, ask for a receipt showing what you'll get back, and check that it matches the rate on the sign and that the rate is reasonable. Then count the cash against the receipt. If they won't write the receipt first, walk away. The exchange on 1st Avenue near Phantom Divers has always done this right.
  • The receipt rule works in reverse at gas stations. Check how much they pumped, the price, and what they charged. Sometimes they tack on a few extra dollars and pocket them as a fake tip. A rental car filling up on the way to the airport is an easy mark.
  • Skip the nightclubs. They're run by cartels, and they'll rip you off.
  • Plenty of online reviews say the massage places are trustworthy. It's still a safe bet you'll get fleeced at best, and at worst you'll wake up missing a kidney. That last part is a gut feeling, not something I know has happened.
  • Beach clubs are more of a Tulum day trip. There are good beach bars on 1st Avenue, and even the bars across the street on 1st feel more normal. In general, things off 5th Avenue are better.
  • See the beach ceremony at least once. It's interesting and a real piece of local culture.
  • Don't go to Chichen Itza, aka chicken pizza. They don't serve margaritas, and it eats a whole day. If you go anyway, don't fall for fake road closures or people waving detour signs. Do stop in Temozón for the smoked barbecue. It's amazing.
  • If you have to do one of the X parks, do Xenses, and don't skip the Xensatorium. That one attraction makes the whole visit. It's a hidden gem you'll talk about for years.
  • Food trucks line up by the supermarket on 30th Avenue, and they're good.
  • Get a marquesita from a street vendor at night, like the ones on Constituyentes. The traditional filling is Nutella and queso de bola, which is Edam cheese. It's a crisp, rolled crepe, a bit like a brittle funnel cake, and it's delicious and fun to watch them make.
  • Drunk and craving something savory? Get tostilocos or dorilocos. Tostilocos is a bag of Tostitos split open and crushed, then loaded with street-corn mayo and seasoning. Dorilocos is the same thing with Doritos. As absolute junk food goes, it's really tasty.

Unofficial. Port colors come from SEMAR and weather from MET Norway. The captaincy, not this site, decides whether boats go out.

Official SEMAR port map

Where to eat

In Playa, in order, starting with the first place to try.

  1. 1

    Muelle 115

    Seafood. Start here.

  2. 2

    Don Chava

    The best tacos al pastor in town.

  3. 3

    El Fogón

    Street-style food.

  4. 4

    El Pirata

    Get the whole fish.

  5. 5

    Singular Residences, rooftop

    A hidden rooftop bar with an ocean view. Cash only.

  6. 6

    Mezcla

    The best romantic dinner in town, and the food is genuinely good. If it were up to me, it would have a Michelin star.

  7. 7

    El Gobernador

    Also known as Gober. If you have to eat near 5th Avenue, it's the best spot for a quick bite and a cocktail.

  8. 8

    La Cueva del Chango

    Go here for breakfast.

  9. 9

    Birria de la 30

    Birria, just like the name says.

  10. 10

    Les Amis

    French sandwiches from an owner who really cares about them.

  11. 11

    Zenzi Beach

    A beach bar that isn't a cartel spot, with good vibes and a fun soccer crowd.

  12. 12

    Dirty Martini

    Go here for karaoke.